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Author Topic: Video Mod for Odyssey2  (Read 29977 times)
Ozyr
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david.flemming.9
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« Reply #45 on: March 05, 2011, 02:04:12 AM »

Yes. I just added video out to my O2 a few weeks ago and it is just a transistor and possibly a resistor. I my memory is correct, I tried it with and without the resistor and didn't see a difference. I forget if I left it in or not.

Similar mod to my g7400 a few years ago. Both work fine. The transistor is a basic radio shack NPN.

I'd like to know how... I followed the instructions on earlier posts here, and it failed, twice. Tried two different type of resistors. I need more explicit instructions, at least on the transistor type (model # or such). I'm guessing 'generic' doesn't cut it (at least not in my experience).

I just want a MOD that works.... Sad
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Rene_G7400
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« Reply #46 on: March 05, 2011, 02:27:51 AM »


I've tried the 1 transistor video mod, with not success. Main reason I'm looking for something else.

I know, but the other (two-transistor) mod should work fine.
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Rene_G7400
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« Reply #47 on: March 05, 2011, 02:51:45 AM »


And I still don't get it. Where does 1,2,3,4 go to?

1, 2 and 3 go to the connector of the RF unit, 4 goes to GND (the large copper area). See picture.
(forget the transistor on this picture for the two-transistor mod.)


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gertk
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« Reply #48 on: March 05, 2011, 12:08:04 PM »

Just a sidenote:

The BC547 has different pin connections as most US type transistors like 2SC...

When you look at the transistor's flat side with the pins pointing down (as in the picture) it is:

 _____
|BC5.. |
|_____|
  |  |  |
 C  B  E
 
 _____
|2SC...|
|_____|
  |  |  |
 E  C  B


Just make sure whichever transistor you use: 'C' connects to pin 2, 'B' connects to pin 3 and your video-output is on 'E', shielding of both cables (audio & video) should be soldered to the large ground plane (4)
« Last Edit: March 05, 2011, 12:15:54 PM by gertk » Logged

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Ozyr
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« Reply #49 on: March 05, 2011, 09:37:45 PM »

Thanks guys!  Smiley

I'll be trying this again next month (too busy this month). Fingers crossed that I can get this to work (but uncrossed when I do the soldering).  Wink
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odyssey3
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nhl2night
« Reply #50 on: March 06, 2011, 04:10:07 AM »

Rene,

when I finally get a Voice module hopefully I can send you my 7400 and you can do all the mods for it?
He did a great job to my G7400.. a few years back.. Thanks Rene!
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odyssey3
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nhl2night
« Reply #51 on: March 06, 2011, 04:13:40 AM »


That won't be a long list:

G7400:

- composite video A/V output (DIN), includes DIN to RCA cable
- RGB A/V output (DIN), includes DIN to SCART cable
- built-in Voice module (not compatible with SID the Spellbinder)

G7000:

- A/V output, fixed RCA cable



Is it possible for you to make a full list of the various mods which are available for the the G7000 and G7400 please.

well that explanes why my (SID the Spellbinder) dont work..if i remember it dosen't ask the question just corrects you with the answer..im guessing its a PAL . NTSC conflict..


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Rene_G7400
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« Reply #52 on: March 06, 2011, 06:37:57 PM »

well that explanes why my (SID the Spellbinder) dont work..if i remember it dosen't ask the question just corrects you with the answer..im guessing its a PAL . NTSC conflict..

The SID cartridge contains an extra ROM chip with Voice data. The built-in Voice module of the G7400 can't communicate with this extra ROM chip inside the cart.
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TedFoolery
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« Reply #53 on: March 07, 2011, 05:37:14 AM »

FYI - My Radio Shack transistor was the 2n3904. Works fine.

Ozyr, I wonder if you fried your transistor when soldering it. Excuse me if you already know this, but since it's the Hardware section, I figured I'd mentioned for any newbie hackers.

It's not mentioned enough when it comes to soldering, but some components are real sensitive to heat. Just holding a soldering iron too long to the part can fry it. So when soldering you should use a heat sink - a simple alligator clip will do.

Example on Q.5
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/worksheets/solder.html

Basically, any component that is polarity dependent should have a heat sink when soldered: transistors, ICs, Electrolytic capacitors (the cylinders), diodes, LEDs, etc. Basic resistors and flat disc capacitors are much more tolerant of heat.
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Seob
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« Reply #54 on: March 07, 2011, 08:52:15 AM »

And don't use a solder iron on gas. That is to hard to control the head. I was making a multi rf switch box, and because the iron was to hot, a few connectors got broken. Now i use a electrical that is easier to control.
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Rene_G7400
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« Reply #55 on: March 07, 2011, 09:40:40 AM »

I never use a heatsink when soldering. Just use a low power soldering iron (mine is only 15 Watt), don't solder too close to the component (preferably more than 1 cm (= 0.4 inch)) and hold the iron to the leads of the components for only a few seconds. And make sure the soldering iron is connected to ground.
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gertk
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« Reply #56 on: March 07, 2011, 12:21:16 PM »

I also never us a heatsink while soldering, it might even make soldering the pin more difficult.
If you look at the soldering instructions of the part manufacturer you often find you can heat up the pin for over 5 seconds (that is a long time for soldering!) at 350C... Remember at a factory, most 'through-hole' parts are soldered by moving the board slowly over a wave of liquid solder...
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TedFoolery
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« Reply #57 on: March 07, 2011, 08:02:57 PM »

All true, but I remember as a novice burning some components with my cheap, 1 temperature soldering iron. I didn't have the proper tools to hold the components, or right iron, solder bulb, skill, etc. and it sometimes took a few attempts to get the solder to stick to the connection (and to just the one connection). I didn't even have a work bench or proper lighting, so trying to manage the solder, the iron, the PCB with components, and flash light while sitting on my bedroom floor made for a lot of soldering mistakes.  Smiley

Yes, I now don't require a heat sink as my skills and tools have improved, but for any newcomer, it's worth mentioning that if you hold the iron to some components for too long, they could get destroyed. Just something to be aware of.
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Seob
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« Reply #58 on: March 08, 2011, 08:38:35 PM »

Make sure you degrease the components you want to solder with something like S-39 from CFS. So the solder sticks better. And use new solder. If you try to re-solder with solder residue it won't stick because the resin in the solder has gone. This makes the solder flow.
Look here how a good solder would look:

Here is a lot of info on how to solder.
http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/how_to_solder/heat_solder/
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gertk
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« Reply #59 on: March 09, 2011, 12:02:22 AM »

Uhm... S39 is to solder plumbing and copper sheeting, NOT electronic components...

The acid in S39 will creep into the component destroying it eventually.

(Electronic) Solder wire with resin core (flux) inside will do just fine.
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