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Author Topic: Joystick repair  (Read 10476 times)
RickO2
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« on: September 06, 2007, 06:44:50 AM »

The videopac.org forum had a lot of detail about fixing the joysticks.  Does anyone care to post that info here?  I should have printed it out but I wasn't planning on an active forum shutting down out of the blue.  Thanks!
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Ozyr
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« Reply #1 on: September 07, 2007, 02:02:57 AM »

same here. I'd love to see that information again!
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Rene_G7400
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« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2007, 09:22:10 AM »

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Sweersa
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Post Odyssey 2 broken controllers    Reply with quote
Does anyone know how to fix broken Odyssey 2 controllers without totally replacing it?


One of the original controllers on my Odyssey 2 failed (hardwired version), every once in a while it would work, but it would be quick to fail again, and then it eventually stopped working all together. When it failed, no controls on the controller wouldn't work at all.

I bought a replacement joystick online and swapped it with the broken one, so the problem was solved, but, if its possible, I would like to fix my original one.

The flex circuit inside of the controller that connects to the harness of the wire fixed into the Odyssey 2 unit seems to be intact and isn't rusted, but there seems to be some visual issues with the circuits behind the translucent plastic on the circuit board of the controller.

How do you get to the actual circuit board to clean this? I believe there is a way to remove the fixed joystick to get to the board, but I could never achieve this. Does the part on the bottom of the controller screw out or something?

I would really appreciate some help on this issue.

Thanks.
Sun Jul 29, 2007 7:38 pm    View user's profile Send private message
Odyssey3
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Hi there..
I posted this on "need help with joysticks" a while back..
There very easy to fix...the key is the getting the black top off use a hair dryer not putting it to close and heat it enough to losen the glue get a cloth and put it on the tip of the black top and pull it off with a pare of pliers.. and removing the C-ring and removing the black circle bottom .. it turns off ... its not easy but it will come off you must do that part 1st.. <O3>

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Mon Jul 30, 2007 1:31 am    View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail MSN Messenger
Sweersa
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I remember reading that, but it sort of confused me, what do you mean by the black top? Also, after I heat up the glue and remove the stick, do I have to re apply glue after I clean the internals?

I don't mean to sound like a jerk or anything, but I would appreciate more detailed instructions on how to do this.

Thanks.
Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:15 am    View user's profile Send private message
Sweersa
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Okay, I removed the face plate off of the hand control unit, and I heated up the stick area that meets up with the base for a minute or so, but I couldn't remove the stick, do I have to somehow unscrew the bottom circle part before I try to pull the stick part out? Or do I pull out the stick then unscrew the bottom circle part?
Tue Jul 31, 2007 1:16 am    View user's profile Send private message
Odyssey3
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   Sweersa wrote:
   Okay, I removed the face plate off of the hand control unit, and I heated up the stick area that meets up with the base for a minute or so, but I couldn't remove the stick, do I have to somehow unscrew the bottom circle part before I try to pull the stick part out? Or do I pull out the stick then unscrew the bottom circle part?
Ok...the 1st thing you got to do is take the(hat) top off the face plate , then what to do is heat the very top of the joystick.. the black tip, get it hot not to hot where it melts but hot enough where you can wrap a cloth around it(once its hot)and pull the tip off with a good pair of pliers,if it still gives you a issue keep heating it untill it gives.. it will come off..once thats off the 2nd thing to do is remove the "C" ring located at the base of the stick push the black spring loaded black disk down (holding the bottom of the joystick,or place the joystick on a flat surface)and remove the "C"ring thats in the knoch with a plair of needle nose pliers, the ring might crack if twisted but straightin it out you can reuse or get a new one at the hardware store there common...once you do that the spring loaded base will slide up and you can remove the black disk and spring... the black center bottom should turn you'll see how it "snaps" in once out the shaft fall out though the bottom..just repeat the process to put back together..hope this helps..and yes glue the "tip back on with epoxy or any glue...
<O3>

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Tue Jul 31, 2007 2:53 am    View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail MSN Messenger
Sweersa
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Thanks for the great instructions! :-)

I understand everything now, I will work on the controller tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
Tue Jul 31, 2007 3:29 am    View user's profile Send private message
Odyssey3
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   Sweersa wrote:
   Thanks for the great instructions! :-)

I understand everything now, I will work on the controller tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
im glad i can help...anytime good luck!<O3>

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Tue Jul 31, 2007 3:32 am    View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail MSN Messenger
Sweersa
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   Odyssey3 wrote:
   
   Sweersa wrote:
   Thanks for the great instructions! :-)

I understand everything now, I will work on the controller tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
im glad i can help...anytime good luck!<O3>


Yay! It worked! I followed your instructions and everything went pretty much perfectly! I took the unit all apart, and then I pulled the chip out, I lifted the translucent material off so I could get to the circuits. Several brown/black spots were on a few of the circuits, I am guessing this was rust, it all eventually came off with with dish soap, and water, with a washcloth, I was obviously very careful working with those on the chip.

The spots cleaned off well, and after I reassembled the controller I hooked it back up, and tested it, everything worked fine! Before I just replaced the whole controller, and now that I have the original one working I put the other original back to match, and now both controller are back together!

So I just boxed away my two other backup/replacement controllers, which happen to be removable, its good to hang on to thoes things.

Thanks a lot for all of the help Odyssey 3, I really appreciate it! :-)
Tue Jul 31, 2007 7:35 pm    View user's profile Send private message
Odyssey3
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Great!!!!im glad it worked out for you!! Till next time... See Ya!!!<O3>

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Wed Aug 01, 2007 2:25 am    View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail MSN Messenger
agt_dale_
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Wow, the Magnavox Odyssey 2 joysticks are nice in terms of functionality, but SUCK SUCK SUCK to repair. I can't believe you have to break (unglue) the thing to get repairs underway...urgh.

Some things I discovered along the way, may be helpful to the community:

1) You don't have to heat the plastic joystick 'handle', I managed to pop it off by grasping the stick itself with some vice grips and then levering the handle off with needlenose pliers. This did minor damage to the base of the handle...unknown whether this is better than heating/removing with pliers/towel in terms of damage rendered, but it's an option for those of you (us, really...) without hairdryers.

2) This ""C" ring" mentioned in O3's overview is actually a "pushnut washer". I found replacements at my local Denault's/True Value, Midwest Fastener Corporation item # 71925, with 3/16" diameter. Could not locate this part at Lowe's (went through the parts boxes rather thoroughly looking for bolts for the Xbox 360 heat sink fix..), didn't try Home Depot.

3) Pushnut washers SUCK to put on. I used a deep 9/16" socket adapted to my screwdriver to get me some leverage to push it down the shaft with. There's a rut in the stick itself that will catch the pushnut washer once in place....don't push too far. If you don't push far enough, the joystick will not reassemble properly.

4) Once you get the thing back together, you'll need to push the plastic tip you removed in 1) back down....HOLD THE BOTTOM of the stick or you'll push the metal stick right out the bottom and snap off the cover plate.

Hope this helps somebody else.....hope this gets stickied.
Wed Aug 08, 2007 6:26 pm    View user's profile Send private message
Sweersa
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   agt_dale_ wrote:
   Wow, the Magnavox Odyssey 2 joysticks are nice in terms of functionality, but SUCK SUCK SUCK to repair. I can't believe you have to break (unglue) the thing to get repairs underway...urgh.

Some things I discovered along the way, may be helpful to the community:

1) You don't have to heat the plastic joystick 'handle', I managed to pop it off by grasping the stick itself with some vice grips and then levering the handle off with needlenose pliers. This did minor damage to the base of the handle...unknown whether this is better than heating/removing with pliers/towel in terms of damage rendered, but it's an option for those of you (us, really...) without hairdryers.

2) This ""C" ring" mentioned in O3's overview is actually a "pushnut washer". I found replacements at my local Denault's/True Value, Midwest Fastener Corporation item # 71925, with 3/16" diameter. Could not locate this part at Lowe's (went through the parts boxes rather thoroughly looking for bolts for the Xbox 360 heat sink fix..), didn't try Home Depot.

3) Pushnut washers SUCK to put on. I used a deep 9/16" socket adapted to my screwdriver to get me some leverage to push it down the shaft with. There's a rut in the stick itself that will catch the pushnut washer once in place....don't push too far. If you don't push far enough, the joystick will not reassemble properly.

4) Once you get the thing back together, you'll need to push the plastic tip you removed in 1) back down....HOLD THE BOTTOM of the stick or you'll push the metal stick right out the bottom and snap off the cover plate.

Hope this helps somebody else.....hope this gets stickied.


Thats good stuff mate. But I sort of disagree with using any hand tools to pull the joystick black tip off thats glued on. All I did was heat it up with a hair dryer, and pull it off with one hand, it wasn't so hard, just make sure to safely hold the controller body in the other hand, tightly. This insures the black tip isn't scratched or damaged in anyway from any tools, even with a cloth to "protect" from tools its risky. It was just difficult to put the back tip back after the repairs were made to be EXACTLY where it was before to make sure it is 100% original looking, and to match the other controller.

You can also save the original push nut washer as I did if you be VERY careful to pry it out of the groove on the metal stick, and then you just pull it off. You can then push it back on when the time comes making sure it goes in the same groove as before to ensure the joystick works and feels proper.
Wed Aug 08, 2007 11:05 pm    View user's profile Send private message
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RickO2
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« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2007, 07:39:10 AM »

Thanks!
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odyssey3
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« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2007, 02:14:04 AM »

Thanks!
Thanks Rene !! i forgot to post that here.. i hope it helps..<O3>
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ANDYRYALS
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« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2007, 08:28:17 PM »

just buy another videopac from ebay its probably cheaper Wink
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Rene_G7400
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« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2007, 01:15:48 AM »

When you can fix it easily then that's cheaper than buying another one.
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Sweersa
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« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2007, 02:55:51 AM »

When you can fix it easily then that's cheaper than buying another one.


And its a good feeling once you successfully fix something you would otherwise have to replace. 

Thats how I feel anyways.
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