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Author Topic: Broken Voice Module  (Read 10197 times)
Rene_G7400
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« Reply #15 on: February 27, 2009, 02:17:08 PM »

Have you tried to play a non-Voice game through the Voice?
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RickO2
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« Reply #16 on: February 27, 2009, 03:23:44 PM »

Have you tried to play a non-Voice game through the Voice?

Yes, I used the multi-cart and tried a couple of different games and the others worked.  Even Smithereens worked but no voice.   Huh?

Should I take it to a small electronics shop and have them test it (it would probably be cheaper to buy another Voice and use this one as scrap/replacement parts)?  I have a multi-meter but I'm not sure what to test. 
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K-C Space Odyssey
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« Reply #17 on: February 27, 2009, 05:16:19 PM »

You said one screw was missing ; are you sure this module wasn't already opened by someone who did some things in it or wanted to fix a problem?
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Ozyr
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« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2009, 06:19:01 PM »

Hey guys (the ones on cleaning stuff), this is about a voice module, not blowing or alcohol!

(each to their own method of cleaning stuff - I use sulfuric acid myself...  Tongue  )

Back on topic, sorry to hear the news Rick, but that Voice module sounds pretty much toast! I'd save it for parts, unless someone hear can wrap their head around this one.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2009, 06:20:48 PM by ozyr » Logged

RickO2
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« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2009, 08:40:43 PM »

You said one screw was missing ; are you sure this module wasn't already opened by someone who did some things in it or wanted to fix a problem?
Thats always a possibility.  I bought it dirt cheap so I can't complain.  The system that it came with works.  Worst case, I'll clean  it up and offer it for sale (the system, not the voice).  I think I have enough spare systems. 
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Gorf
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« Reply #20 on: February 27, 2009, 08:45:01 PM »


I use alcohol to clean thermal paste off of CPUs and Heat syncs with no ill effects, many people I know in the IT field use this. 

CPU's are ceramic or plastic and less likely to corrode. IT wont destroy it over night
but why do it as it is indeed corrosive? The contact cleaner is better.
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Rene_G7400
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« Reply #21 on: February 28, 2009, 12:16:21 AM »

Have you tried to play a non-Voice game through the Voice?

Yes, I used the multi-cart and tried a couple of different games and the others worked.  Even Smithereens worked but no voice.   Huh?

Should I take it to a small electronics shop and have them test it (it would probably be cheaper to buy another Voice and use this one as scrap/replacement parts)?  I have a multi-meter but I'm not sure what to test. 

OK, so the connectors are working fine!
Turtles might not work because it's waiting for a response from the Voice chip.

I don't think an electronics shop will take a look at a 26 year old device.
Trying to fix it might mean finding a new Voice chip or Voice ROM, which can only be taken from another Voice module...
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Sweersa
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« Reply #22 on: February 28, 2009, 03:31:18 AM »


I use alcohol to clean thermal paste off of CPUs and Heat syncs with no ill effects, many people I know in the IT field use this. 

CPU's are ceramic or plastic and less likely to corrode. IT wont destroy it over night
but why do it as it is indeed corrosive? The contact cleaner is better.

No I am talking about computer CPUs (processors), with the metal surface.  Believe me the preferred way to remove thermal paste from a CPU of this kind or heat sink is by using isopropyl alcohol. (I use 91%, or the highest I can find.)

Is shouldn't affect the CPU surface in any way, atleast in our lifetimes.  Some people (over clockers) even go so far as to lap (literally sand down and prep) the surfaces of CPUs and HSFs for maximum heat transfer for optimal cooling.  If you can sand down a CPU surface somewhat rubbing alcohol should have no effect, atleast for a long, long, long, long time.  And by then we would either be dead or using an entirely different computer long before anything bad happened, if ever at all.
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Gorf
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« Reply #23 on: February 28, 2009, 03:42:21 AM »


I use alcohol to clean thermal paste off of CPUs and Heat syncs with no ill effects, many people I know in the IT field use this. 

CPU's are ceramic or plastic and less likely to corrode. IT wont destroy it over night
but why do it as it is indeed corrosive? The contact cleaner is better.


For something like removing thick residue, yes you use alcohol but you should rinse
it off in water afterwards. It wont destroy anything for a good long time if it even does,
so ANDYRYALS is correct in that. However, we are talking obsolete, unreplacable O2
carts. You want to take as good a care of them as you can.

For anyone who wishes to test this, simply clean a mirror and every so often breath on it.
You will see a film form on the mirror. This same thing happens to your carts.

No I am talking about computer CPUs (processors), with the metal surface.  Believe me the preferred way to remove thermal paste from a CPU of this kind or heat sink is by using isopropyl alcohol. (I use 91%, or the highest I can find.)

Is shouldn't affect the CPU surface in any way, atleast in our lifetimes.  Some people (over clockers) even go so far as to lap (literally sand down and prep) the surfaces of CPUs and HSFs for maximum heat transfer for optimal cooling.  If you can sand down a CPU surface somewhat rubbing alcohol should have no effect, atleast for a long, long, long, long time.  And by then we would either be dead or using an entirely different computer long before anything bad happened, if ever at all.
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ANDYRYALS
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« Reply #24 on: February 28, 2009, 12:41:13 PM »

Gorf,

I enjoy our debate and i'm in no way insulting or shouting at you!! But, the o2 as a console sold millions of units and is a widely distributed machine over in USA and all over Europe, finding replacements for [b]some[/b] of the carts is not a problems (Terrahawks)  Roll Eyes being a good example. I agree that some carts are ultra rare such as the prototype's etc and as such deserve such respect! There I hope we can both put our handbags away and play like nice children!!!!

Regards

Andy
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I have 12"
K-C Space Odyssey
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« Reply #25 on: February 28, 2009, 02:10:03 PM »


(edit :Sorry, I didn't understand you'd already opened it!  Embarrassed)

Well , suppose the seller might be right , that the module would have be working correctly before shipping. Then , the failure is due to a mechanical shock and is almost certainly a broken solder.
I think it is worth opening the module and looking inside with a good magnifying lens.

Of course, if the seller didn't tell the truth, the problem could be worse. I have some knowledge in electronic (building and repairing some electronic devices with microcontrollers) but doing a distant repair isn't easy! .

(Edit: What kind of components are inside ?  One or two chips or more than that?)
« Last Edit: February 28, 2009, 02:38:50 PM by K-C Space Odyssey » Logged
Sweersa
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« Reply #26 on: February 28, 2009, 03:41:00 PM »

No, only rubbing alcohol.  You want to keep water away from the surface of a CPU because of mineral deposits and such that could build up on microscopic imperfections on the CPU surface, that is why you want to use 91% alcohol in the first place, or higher if available. 
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Rene_G7400
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« Reply #27 on: February 28, 2009, 05:27:13 PM »

(Edit: What kind of components are inside ?  One or two chips or more than that?)

Basically the same as the Odyssey3 Voice module:
http://www.dieterkoenig.at/ccc/po/s_po_o3vmiv.htm
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K-C Space Odyssey
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« Reply #28 on: March 01, 2009, 12:47:01 AM »

Hello

       I've looked at the photo (thank you Rene for the link!   Smiley ) and I've found the SP0256 and (I think) the SPR128 (ROM) datascheets. After a short reading, here is my early conclusion :

The ROM (named SPR128 : in fact it seems to be a kind of SPR016) can't be faulty because there is no waiting signal in its exchange with the SP0256 : if the rom was dead, the SP0256 would read 0 or 1 or erratic data, but wouldn't be frozen and , by extension, woudn't freeze the videopac. (sorry for my awful English   Embarrassed ).
There are only two signals in the interface between videopac and SP0256 that could keep the system from working :  SBY pin 8  and LRQ pin 9.  These two pins work like 'busy' signals when at 1 (5V). If the SPR256 was faulty and kept these signals always at 1 , then the videopac would be waiting without an end for them to return to 0. A measurement (?) with the voltmeter is worth doing on these two pins when the computer is switch on. If these two signals don't stay always at 1, then the SP0256 is healthy, I think.
There are two other components on the card : two 74LSXXX  that make me very suspicious, because all the faulty components I've changed on my old consoles were always 74LSXXX, so there is a little hope for an easy repair if they are involved.

good luck.  Wink 
« Last Edit: March 01, 2009, 02:18:19 AM by K-C Space Odyssey » Logged
RickO2
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« Reply #29 on: March 02, 2009, 04:13:32 AM »

Thanks for checking into it.  I'll keep it for parts. 
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